Stepping off the plane at Thira airport, a warm lick of heat washes over me carrying with it the faint smell of curry leaves that grow wild across this barren volcanic rock. Unsure as to what to expect from this brief visit to Santorini other than the anticipation of heat, seafood and plenty of local wine, I was unprepared for the energy that emanated from the core of one of the earth’s most powerful volcano’s and the magic that this has imbued every aspect of the island with.
Bare, wild and raw yet at the same time vital, vibrant, and alive, Santorini seems to weave a spell over those that arrive on her shores and the effect is either love or hate, clarity or insanity. It is an island of extremes; extreme beauty, extreme temperature, extreme winemaking. Is it any wonder then that the wines being produced on this island are, simply put, extraordinary?
To truly love someone you must first understand them and the influences that have moulded them into the person they are today. To truly appreciate wine, the prerequisites are no different. Driving through the vineyards on a decrepit quad bike allowed an intimate glimpse into the life of the vines. It was however, more reminiscent of driving through a construction yard with haphazard growths of unkempt shrubs than through a vineyard and yet the vines of Santorini produce some of the most aromatic and mineral driven grapes imaginable. The resilience of those vines that have penetrated the unyielding pumice stone and volcanic rock, that have withstood the scorching heat, bitter cold, powerful winds and scarcity of water speak volumes for the intensity of the fruit they produce. This understated vista was somehow befitting of a wine of such natural power and beauty.
To visit Gaia Winery was to see first-hand the contrasts that epitomise the island. The humble winery with the odd pane of broken glass belies the state of the art machinery inside and the immaculately clean cellar. In the courtyard the pristine swimming pool contrasts with the wild black sand beach which flanks it. The deserted restaurant with the peeling yellow paint and no roof is carpeted with grapes drying in the sun to make the islands famous sweet vinsanto wine. Yiannie Paraskevopoulos the wine maker, is one of Greece’s leading lights and is making ultra modern wines out of some of the world’s most archaic grapes (the vines are believed to be some of the oldest in the world, with root systems of over 500 years old and having never been touched by phyloxera all the vines are un-grafted). The wine revolution is in full swing in Greece and Yiannie is most definitely at the helm.
What this winery is really famous for are the bone dry white wines made from 100% Assyrtiko grapes. ‘Thalassitis’ from the Greek ‘from the sea’ is the name of Gaia’s flagship Assyrtiko, alternatively described as ‘the greatest vin de terroir of the world’ the ‘Rocky Balboa of white wine’, and a ‘Chablis on steroids’ it is an explosion of intense baked lemon, wild herbs and a spine tingling minerality which sets the palate on fire and continues to sizzle long after it has vacated the mouth. Truly a wine of international class.
Extreme wine making on the edge of the volcano has given birth to an extreme wine. Sitting there eating fresh hunks of barbequed octopus tentacles and a caper strewn fresh Santorini salad, the hot breeze tugging at my hair, the clear waves rolling against black sands and the tang of salt in the air, it would have taken a heart of stone not to have been moved. Some sights, sounds and tastes stay with you for a long time, and that wine, that view over the Caldera, that moment is one of them.
Monday, September 14, 2009
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Officially the Best Riesling in the World!!!!
Having waxed lyrical about the wonders of the Johann Donabaum Riesling Setzberg Smargd 2007 from Austria I was rightly challenged to prove its worth in a line up of new and old world Rieslings among friends ever anxious to prove their own might. After a lengthy day of non-spitting and a variety of styles from the beautifully feminine, off dry florality of the German Donnhof, the unbelievably masculine, phenominally compact grand-daddy of Austrian wine, FX Pickler Austrian to the great citrus, manderine and petrol balance of the new world Woollaston Riesling from Nelson in New Zealand, the Donabaum did indeed stand its ground a treat.
I would now like to add the cherry to the cake - The Decanter World Wine Awards was held on Tuesday night and the Donabaum Setzberg Riesling won not only a gold trophy, but the International Riesling Trophy. Just to clarify that makes it THE BEST RIESLING IN THE WORLD.
Johann is only 30 years old. What a legend! Watch this space!!!
I would now like to add the cherry to the cake - The Decanter World Wine Awards was held on Tuesday night and the Donabaum Setzberg Riesling won not only a gold trophy, but the International Riesling Trophy. Just to clarify that makes it THE BEST RIESLING IN THE WORLD.
Johann is only 30 years old. What a legend! Watch this space!!!
Friday, August 14, 2009
Johann Donabaum wins Gold at Decanter with his show stopping Riesling Setzberg 2007
It has the sleek body of a greyhound, the power of Ricky Hatton and the allure of Angelina Jolie... I wish I was talking about myself but alas not. No, this is the most recent wine to hit the UK from award winning Austrian wine maker Johann Donabaum, his Johann Donabaum Setzberg Spitz Riesling Smaragd 2007.
Out of respect I would request that those tasting this beautiful gem sit down and take a second to thank the wine gods (and Johann) for sending this wine to our shores. A fantastically rich nose of fresh apricots, white flowers, wet flint (yes, that's a good thing) and a cheeky spiciness rises seductively to my twitching nose. And then an explosion of flavour on the palate, that fabulous fruit is balanced and oh so cleverly enhanced by a rapier acidity and an intense minerality that all at once makes you want to yodle from the top of the closest mountain (or office block if like me you're sipping it at your computer at work) and swiftly top up your glass and grin complacently at those less fortunate souls around you.
I am delighted that I am not the only one who believes this is a show stopper of note, Decanter have just awarded it a gold Trophy at Decanter Wine Awards 2009... and is heavily tipped to be bringing home more gongs shortly.
With only 20 cases avaiable in the UK through Novum Wines I fully intend to get my mucky paws on a few cases. Right, I'm off to finish the bottle.
Out of respect I would request that those tasting this beautiful gem sit down and take a second to thank the wine gods (and Johann) for sending this wine to our shores. A fantastically rich nose of fresh apricots, white flowers, wet flint (yes, that's a good thing) and a cheeky spiciness rises seductively to my twitching nose. And then an explosion of flavour on the palate, that fabulous fruit is balanced and oh so cleverly enhanced by a rapier acidity and an intense minerality that all at once makes you want to yodle from the top of the closest mountain (or office block if like me you're sipping it at your computer at work) and swiftly top up your glass and grin complacently at those less fortunate souls around you.
I am delighted that I am not the only one who believes this is a show stopper of note, Decanter have just awarded it a gold Trophy at Decanter Wine Awards 2009... and is heavily tipped to be bringing home more gongs shortly.
With only 20 cases avaiable in the UK through Novum Wines I fully intend to get my mucky paws on a few cases. Right, I'm off to finish the bottle.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Love Kiwi wine but bored of Marlborough?
Though there are some real gems (such as Mahi) coming out of the Marlborough region of New Zealand's South Island, many of them are becoming disappointingly formulaic. Sauvingon Blanc, for sometime now the countries calling card is predictibly grassy with a punchy acidity (often artificially enhanced) and somewhat mechanised.
Fine wine production really only took off in New Zealand in the 1970's, and since then a handful of dedicated wine makers and growers have been forging ahead, matching varietals to the terroir, exploring microclimates and alternative viticultural practicies such as organic and biodynamic farming and pushing the boundaries of what has been a recently type cast wine region.
Nelson is one of the most exciting of New Zealand's up and coming wine making regions. Situated to the north-west of it's famous neighbour Marlborough, it is not only cooler but it is protected from the rain by mountains to the west, it gets plenty of sunshine and the climate is moderated by its proximity to the sea. This typically makes harvest about 2 weeks later than Marlborough, and produces wines of exceptional elegance and restraint. In short it has the perfect climate for cool climate aromatic European grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Noir. Combine this with a varied and exciting range of terroirs allowing for wines of individuality, depth and expression and you're onto a winner.
Woollaston Winery is one that immediately catches the imagination, for it is typical of the new breed of wine making philosophy which is being pioneered across the country. That they are making boutique, hand crafted wines that reflect the passion of the land and the wine maker goes without saying. However they have taken this a step further by making it a certified Sustainable winery. This encourages the adoption in the vineyards and winery of best practice options that minimise environmental impact ie through the use of gravity to reduce electricity, they even have tussock grass growning from the roof of the winery to insulate it.. They are currently working towards full Organic status.
Now, enough about their green credentials, lets talk about the wines!
Woollaston Sauvignon Blanc 2008 £10.99
A wine of wonderful balance, fresh passion fruit and subtle sherbet give zest and a mouth watering juiciness, while the back bone of minerality gives struces, elegance and beauty. Moreish yet classy it is a great alternative to the harsher Marlborough Sauvignon's, something you can really show off when serving. Great with smoked fish, asparagus, Sushi and Dim Sum.
Woollaston Riesling 2007 £10.99 retail
A deserved Gold Medal at the International Wine Challenge, this wine has blasted its way onto the international stage. Quite often a grape that is feared, this is a magical little number that I would wager could swing the hardest heart and palate in its favour. Sweet citrus blossom and lime on the nose are enriched with mandarin and minerals on the palate. A fabulously rich and textured mouthfeel, it has a delightfully dry finish make it a cracking combination with spicy Asian dishes, rich shellfish done over smoky coals and Sushi.
Woollaston Pinot Noir 2006 £16.99 retail
Red plums and black cherry marry beautifully with a delicious savoury edge of smoky gammon and subtle spicy oak. integrated and balanced, with wonderfully supple tannins it provides a wonderful value alternative to Burgundy. A real treat served with peking duck, gamefish, lamb, venison and creamy blue cheese.
In short they are exciting, modern, green, great value, flipping delicious and available in the UK through Novum Wines. Don't follow the established wine paths, forge ahead with great wines such as these and you won't be disappointed. Just don't be suprised when you keep being asked to provide the wine at dinner parties!
Fine wine production really only took off in New Zealand in the 1970's, and since then a handful of dedicated wine makers and growers have been forging ahead, matching varietals to the terroir, exploring microclimates and alternative viticultural practicies such as organic and biodynamic farming and pushing the boundaries of what has been a recently type cast wine region.
Nelson is one of the most exciting of New Zealand's up and coming wine making regions. Situated to the north-west of it's famous neighbour Marlborough, it is not only cooler but it is protected from the rain by mountains to the west, it gets plenty of sunshine and the climate is moderated by its proximity to the sea. This typically makes harvest about 2 weeks later than Marlborough, and produces wines of exceptional elegance and restraint. In short it has the perfect climate for cool climate aromatic European grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Noir. Combine this with a varied and exciting range of terroirs allowing for wines of individuality, depth and expression and you're onto a winner.
Woollaston Winery is one that immediately catches the imagination, for it is typical of the new breed of wine making philosophy which is being pioneered across the country. That they are making boutique, hand crafted wines that reflect the passion of the land and the wine maker goes without saying. However they have taken this a step further by making it a certified Sustainable winery. This encourages the adoption in the vineyards and winery of best practice options that minimise environmental impact ie through the use of gravity to reduce electricity, they even have tussock grass growning from the roof of the winery to insulate it.. They are currently working towards full Organic status.
Now, enough about their green credentials, lets talk about the wines!
Woollaston Sauvignon Blanc 2008 £10.99
A wine of wonderful balance, fresh passion fruit and subtle sherbet give zest and a mouth watering juiciness, while the back bone of minerality gives struces, elegance and beauty. Moreish yet classy it is a great alternative to the harsher Marlborough Sauvignon's, something you can really show off when serving. Great with smoked fish, asparagus, Sushi and Dim Sum.
Woollaston Riesling 2007 £10.99 retail
A deserved Gold Medal at the International Wine Challenge, this wine has blasted its way onto the international stage. Quite often a grape that is feared, this is a magical little number that I would wager could swing the hardest heart and palate in its favour. Sweet citrus blossom and lime on the nose are enriched with mandarin and minerals on the palate. A fabulously rich and textured mouthfeel, it has a delightfully dry finish make it a cracking combination with spicy Asian dishes, rich shellfish done over smoky coals and Sushi.
Woollaston Pinot Noir 2006 £16.99 retail
Red plums and black cherry marry beautifully with a delicious savoury edge of smoky gammon and subtle spicy oak. integrated and balanced, with wonderfully supple tannins it provides a wonderful value alternative to Burgundy. A real treat served with peking duck, gamefish, lamb, venison and creamy blue cheese.
In short they are exciting, modern, green, great value, flipping delicious and available in the UK through Novum Wines. Don't follow the established wine paths, forge ahead with great wines such as these and you won't be disappointed. Just don't be suprised when you keep being asked to provide the wine at dinner parties!
Friday, July 31, 2009
Bulgarian Pinot gets tongues wagging
A sneak preview of something that might really brighten up this increasingly depressing weather. Warm, muggy and over cast has replaced the oh so optimistic 'Barbeque summer' (when was that ever going to be a realistic prediction for the mud island?) so my desire of juicy roses and racy whites has some what diminished in the face of the driving rain. However I can't quite bring myself to admit defeat and dive into a beefy Malbec so my thoughts drift longingly to the beautifully perfumed red Burgundies and are so thoroughly out of my price range it brings tears to my eyes (and the ones that are in my price range tend to bring tears to my eyes with their green tannins and stinky corks)
Refusing to allow this unacceptable status quo to continue I have managed to discover an absolute gem. A sneak preview of the EM Pinot Nero 2007 from Bulgaria (Yes Bulgaria!) has answered my prayers, and I have to say there is nothing better than finding an absolute cracker from a very unusual region. Not yet due into the country for another month this is a real beauty and has already caused a stir among the sommeliers who have had the opportunity to taste it, so watch for its name on leading wine lists soon. It will be retailing through the Novum Wines website at approximately £11.00
It has the elegance and perfume of Burgundy, a fabulous purity of fruit, accessible yet refined tannins and a mouth watering finish, all underpinned with a seductive hints of smokey French oak. It will prove a great partner to white and red meat, young cheese and roasted vegetables.
The winery was established in 2002 by Italian Edoardo Miroglio who after elaborate analyses of the micro region of Elenovo village he found the ideal terroir for cultivating premium vines. This squeaky clean, modern winery is most certainly one to watch for serious quality and affordable prices, though quantities are limited.
This is an absolutely wonderful substitute for the often over priced Burgundies on the market and a real pleasure to be on the front line of new boutique producers coming in from exciting regions. This wine will be available from Novum Wines by the end of August.
Refusing to allow this unacceptable status quo to continue I have managed to discover an absolute gem. A sneak preview of the EM Pinot Nero 2007 from Bulgaria (Yes Bulgaria!) has answered my prayers, and I have to say there is nothing better than finding an absolute cracker from a very unusual region. Not yet due into the country for another month this is a real beauty and has already caused a stir among the sommeliers who have had the opportunity to taste it, so watch for its name on leading wine lists soon. It will be retailing through the Novum Wines website at approximately £11.00
It has the elegance and perfume of Burgundy, a fabulous purity of fruit, accessible yet refined tannins and a mouth watering finish, all underpinned with a seductive hints of smokey French oak. It will prove a great partner to white and red meat, young cheese and roasted vegetables.
The winery was established in 2002 by Italian Edoardo Miroglio who after elaborate analyses of the micro region of Elenovo village he found the ideal terroir for cultivating premium vines. This squeaky clean, modern winery is most certainly one to watch for serious quality and affordable prices, though quantities are limited.
This is an absolutely wonderful substitute for the often over priced Burgundies on the market and a real pleasure to be on the front line of new boutique producers coming in from exciting regions. This wine will be available from Novum Wines by the end of August.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
A feast for palate, mind and soul
We all know that food and wine are a match made in heaven, especially when a little thought is put into the pairing, but the time has now come to take this popular concept a step further and add an unusual twist. The Drawing Room Restaurant in Nottinghill have joined forces with boutique wine importer Novum Wines and artist Andrew Brooke for one night to bring you a collaboration between art, wine and food.
For one night only you will be invited to drink in and discover, both through the eyes and through the mouth, the journey both have taken to arrive in front of you, and where these sights, sounds and flavours may take you in turn. Open you mind and palate and allow yourself to be transported away from the daily grind and see what senses are aroused when given the chance. Combine this with some fabulously matched food and you will soon be in 7th heaven.
The evening of Wednesday 29th July will include bubbles and canapes followed by an interactive introduction from the artist and the wine importer, and of course, a 3 course dinner paired with 6 wines, all for only £45. Places are very limited so contact alex@novumwines.com if this sounds like your cup of tea.
Laurant Chatenay Montlouis Sparkling Brut NV, Loire, France
Canapes
To Start...
Pan fried Scallops, sweet potato puree with smoked paprika and a Thai herb salad
Easthope 'The Gatecrasher' 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
and
Weegmuller Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007, Pflaz, Germany
Then...
Pork medalians, crushed new potatoes with olives, capers and rosemary jus
Gaia Thalassitis 2007, Santorini, Greece
and
Bodegas Solar Urbezo Vina Urbezo Tinto 2008, Carinena, Spain
And Finally....
Cheese board
Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvingon Resera 2006, Maipo Valley
and
Domaine Juliette Avril Chateauneuf du Pape 2006, Rhone, France
For one night only you will be invited to drink in and discover, both through the eyes and through the mouth, the journey both have taken to arrive in front of you, and where these sights, sounds and flavours may take you in turn. Open you mind and palate and allow yourself to be transported away from the daily grind and see what senses are aroused when given the chance. Combine this with some fabulously matched food and you will soon be in 7th heaven.
The evening of Wednesday 29th July will include bubbles and canapes followed by an interactive introduction from the artist and the wine importer, and of course, a 3 course dinner paired with 6 wines, all for only £45. Places are very limited so contact alex@novumwines.com if this sounds like your cup of tea.
Laurant Chatenay Montlouis Sparkling Brut NV, Loire, France
Canapes
To Start...
Pan fried Scallops, sweet potato puree with smoked paprika and a Thai herb salad
Easthope 'The Gatecrasher' 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
and
Weegmuller Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007, Pflaz, Germany
Then...
Pork medalians, crushed new potatoes with olives, capers and rosemary jus
Gaia Thalassitis 2007, Santorini, Greece
and
Bodegas Solar Urbezo Vina Urbezo Tinto 2008, Carinena, Spain
And Finally....
Cheese board
Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvingon Resera 2006, Maipo Valley
and
Domaine Juliette Avril Chateauneuf du Pape 2006, Rhone, France
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Desmond Tutu and Biodynamic White Burgundy
Last night I was lucky enough to attend a lecture by Archbishop Desmond Tutu at St Paul's Catherdral. At 78 years old he stood and slowly approached the lecturn under the arching splendor of the domed roof, looking a little unsteady on his feet and every minute of his age I had to prevent myself from jumping up and offering him a hand. As he turned and began his address, the transformation was spectacular. He seemed to grow inches and shed the years. His eyes were alive alternatively with humour and humility and the impact of not only his words but his delivery and his presence were evident on the faces of the audience. A wonderfully balanced speech he spoke with sincerity, with fire and with love, interspercing it with dramatic pauses and bouts of contageous laughter. To be in the presence of such a life force was an almost spiritual experience, for the first time I experienced the power of a truly great orator, but more than that, of a truly great man.
What has this all got to do with white burgundy you're wondering, is she just enjoying the sound of her own fingers? Rhythmic though they are, stick with it, there is a point to my rambling, tenuous though it might at first appear.
I have just tasted the latest vintage (2007) of Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot Grand Chatelain from Burgundy. Now this is a wine from a tiny family run estate in the Cotes de Beaune and the wine maker is just 24 years old, I opened and poured contently looking forward to a well made, pleasant white Burgundy. What I got was something different all together.
Just as this unpreposesing man had approached the microphone, so too did this wine, for all intents and purposes appear to be similar to any other well made and boutique Cotes de Beaune. It looked good; clean, pure and light gold. It smelt delicious, rich yet restrained hinting at a depth you'd only discover once it had entered your mouth... and this is when the transformation happened. As soon as this wine hit my palate it just exploded, it was so alive and vibrant, it had an energy to it that even an untrained palate couldn't help but be affected by. Fabulous fruit concentration, rounded oak perfectly intigrated, a touch of spice, structure, finesse and elegance, but there was something else about it over and above this that captivated and really awoke the senses.
Be as cynical as you will about biodynamic farming but for all their weird and wonderful practices, it is a focus on harnessing the earths energy, working with nature, gravity, life and growth and channelling the energy of the vine through the harvest and into the tank or barrel, respecting its natural movement and flow, in short working with the vine not against it. I have tasted beautifully made biodynamic wines, but could I have said this was the result of biodynamics rather than a very talented wine maker or viticulturalist? Possibly not. This however is the first time that I can say with certainty that the purity and natural energy of the wine I tasted had harnessed more than just flavour from its terroir, but life from the soils.
All a bit profound for a Tuesday afternoon? Quite possibly, but every once in a while when something or someone really hits home and gets under the skin it does feel good to talk about it!
What has this all got to do with white burgundy you're wondering, is she just enjoying the sound of her own fingers? Rhythmic though they are, stick with it, there is a point to my rambling, tenuous though it might at first appear.
I have just tasted the latest vintage (2007) of Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot Grand Chatelain from Burgundy. Now this is a wine from a tiny family run estate in the Cotes de Beaune and the wine maker is just 24 years old, I opened and poured contently looking forward to a well made, pleasant white Burgundy. What I got was something different all together.
Just as this unpreposesing man had approached the microphone, so too did this wine, for all intents and purposes appear to be similar to any other well made and boutique Cotes de Beaune. It looked good; clean, pure and light gold. It smelt delicious, rich yet restrained hinting at a depth you'd only discover once it had entered your mouth... and this is when the transformation happened. As soon as this wine hit my palate it just exploded, it was so alive and vibrant, it had an energy to it that even an untrained palate couldn't help but be affected by. Fabulous fruit concentration, rounded oak perfectly intigrated, a touch of spice, structure, finesse and elegance, but there was something else about it over and above this that captivated and really awoke the senses.
Be as cynical as you will about biodynamic farming but for all their weird and wonderful practices, it is a focus on harnessing the earths energy, working with nature, gravity, life and growth and channelling the energy of the vine through the harvest and into the tank or barrel, respecting its natural movement and flow, in short working with the vine not against it. I have tasted beautifully made biodynamic wines, but could I have said this was the result of biodynamics rather than a very talented wine maker or viticulturalist? Possibly not. This however is the first time that I can say with certainty that the purity and natural energy of the wine I tasted had harnessed more than just flavour from its terroir, but life from the soils.
All a bit profound for a Tuesday afternoon? Quite possibly, but every once in a while when something or someone really hits home and gets under the skin it does feel good to talk about it!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
