Santorini, an island of stark contrasts

Stepping off the plane at Thira airport, a warm lick of heat washes over me carrying with it the faint smell of curry leaves that grow wild across this barren volcanic rock. Unsure as to what to expect from this brief visit to Santorini other than the anticipation of heat, seafood and plenty of local wine, I was unprepared for the energy that emanated from the core of one of the earth’s most powerful volcano’s and the magic that this has imbued every aspect of the island with.
Bare, wild and raw yet at the same time vital, vibrant, and alive, Santorini seems to weave a spell over those that arrive on her shores and the effect is either love or hate, clarity or insanity. It is an island of extremes; extreme beauty, extreme temperature, extreme winemaking. Is it any wonder then that the wines being produced on this island are, simply put, extraordinary?
To truly love someone you must first understand them and the influences that have moulded them into the person they are today. To truly appreciate wine, the prerequisites are no different. Driving through the vineyards on a decrepit quad bike allowed an intimate glimpse into the life of the vines. It was however, more reminiscent of driving through a construction yard with haphazard growths of unkempt shrubs than through a vineyard and yet the vines of Santorini produce some of the most aromatic and mineral driven grapes imaginable. The resilience of those vines that have penetrated the unyielding pumice stone and volcanic rock, that have withstood the scorching heat, bitter cold, powerful winds and scarcity of water speak volumes for the intensity of the fruit they produce. This understated vista was somehow befitting of a wine of such natural power and beauty.

To visit Gaia Winery was to see first-hand the contrasts that epitomise the island. The humble winery with the odd pane of broken glass belies the state of the art machinery inside and the immaculately clean cellar. In the courtyard the pristine swimming pool contrasts with the wild black sand beach which flanks it. The deserted restaurant with the peeling yellow paint and no roof is carpeted with grapes drying in the sun to make the islands famous sweet vinsanto wine. Yiannie Paraskevopoulos the wine maker, is one of Greece’s leading lights and is making ultra modern wines out of some of the world’s most archaic grapes (the vines are believed to be some of the oldest in the world, with root systems of over 500 years old and having never been touched by phyloxera all the vines are un-grafted). The wine revolution is in full swing in Greece and Yiannie is most definitely at the helm.

What this winery is really famous for are the bone dry white wines made from 100% Assyrtiko grapes. ‘Thalassitis’ from the Greek ‘from the sea’ is the name of Gaia’s flagship Assyrtiko, alternatively described as ‘the greatest vin de terroir of the world’ the ‘Rocky Balboa of white wine’, and a ‘Chablis on steroids’ it is an explosion of intense baked lemon, wild herbs and a spine tingling minerality which sets the palate on fire and continues to sizzle long after it has vacated the mouth. Truly a wine of international class.

Extreme wine making on the edge of the volcano has given birth to an extreme wine. Sitting there eating fresh hunks of barbequed octopus tentacles and a caper strewn fresh Santorini salad, the hot breeze tugging at my hair, the clear waves rolling against black sands and the tang of salt in the air, it would have taken a heart of stone not to have been moved. Some sights, sounds and tastes stay with you for a long time, and that wine, that view over the Caldera, that moment is one of them.

Officially the Best Riesling in the World!!!!

Having waxed lyrical about the wonders of the Johann Donabaum Riesling Setzberg Smargd 2007 from Austria I was rightly challenged to prove its worth in a line up of new and old world Rieslings among friends ever anxious to prove their own might. After a lengthy day of non-spitting and a variety of styles from the beautifully feminine, off dry florality of the German Donnhof, the unbelievably masculine, phenominally compact grand-daddy of Austrian wine, FX Pickler Austrian to the great citrus, manderine and petrol balance of the new world Woollaston Riesling from Nelson in New Zealand, the Donabaum did indeed stand its ground a treat.

I would now like to add the cherry to the cake - The Decanter World Wine Awards was held on Tuesday night and the Donabaum Setzberg Riesling won not only a gold trophy, but the International Riesling Trophy. Just to clarify that makes it THE BEST RIESLING IN THE WORLD.

Johann is only 30 years old. What a legend! Watch this space!!!

Johann Donabaum wins Gold at Decanter with his show stopping Riesling Setzberg 2007

It has the sleek body of a greyhound, the power of Ricky Hatton and the allure of Angelina Jolie... I wish I was talking about myself but alas not. No, this is the most recent wine to hit the UK from award winning Austrian wine maker Johann Donabaum, his Johann Donabaum Setzberg Spitz Riesling Smaragd 2007.

Out of respect I would request that those tasting this beautiful gem sit down and take a second to thank the wine gods (and Johann) for sending this wine to our shores. A fantastically rich nose of fresh apricots, white flowers, wet flint (yes, that's a good thing) and a cheeky spiciness rises seductively to my twitching nose. And then an explosion of flavour on the palate, that fabulous fruit is balanced and oh so cleverly enhanced by a rapier acidity and an intense minerality that all at once makes you want to yodle from the top of the closest mountain (or office block if like me you're sipping it at your computer at work) and swiftly top up your glass and grin complacently at those less fortunate souls around you.

I am delighted that I am not the only one who believes this is a show stopper of note, Decanter have just awarded it a gold Trophy at Decanter Wine Awards 2009... and is heavily tipped to be bringing home more gongs shortly.

With only 20 cases avaiable in the UK through Novum Wines I fully intend to get my mucky paws on a few cases. Right, I'm off to finish the bottle.

Love Kiwi wine but bored of Marlborough?

Though there are some real gems (such as Mahi) coming out of the Marlborough region of New Zealand's South Island, many of them are becoming disappointingly formulaic. Sauvingon Blanc, for sometime now the countries calling card is predictibly grassy with a punchy acidity (often artificially enhanced) and somewhat mechanised.

Fine wine production really only took off in New Zealand in the 1970's, and since then a handful of dedicated wine makers and growers have been forging ahead, matching varietals to the terroir, exploring microclimates and alternative viticultural practicies such as organic and biodynamic farming and pushing the boundaries of what has been a recently type cast wine region.

Nelson is one of the most exciting of New Zealand's up and coming wine making regions. Situated to the north-west of it's famous neighbour Marlborough, it is not only cooler but it is protected from the rain by mountains to the west, it gets plenty of sunshine and the climate is moderated by its proximity to the sea. This typically makes harvest about 2 weeks later than Marlborough, and produces wines of exceptional elegance and restraint. In short it has the perfect climate for cool climate aromatic European grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Noir. Combine this with a varied and exciting range of terroirs allowing for wines of individuality, depth and expression and you're onto a winner.

Woollaston Winery is one that immediately catches the imagination, for it is typical of the new breed of wine making philosophy which is being pioneered across the country. That they are making boutique, hand crafted wines that reflect the passion of the land and the wine maker goes without saying. However they have taken this a step further by making it a certified Sustainable winery. This encourages the adoption in the vineyards and winery of best practice options that minimise environmental impact ie through the use of gravity to reduce electricity, they even have tussock grass growning from the roof of the winery to insulate it.. They are currently working towards full Organic status.

Now, enough about their green credentials, lets talk about the wines!

Woollaston Sauvignon Blanc 2008 £10.99
A wine of wonderful balance, fresh passion fruit and subtle sherbet give zest and a mouth watering juiciness, while the back bone of minerality gives struces, elegance and beauty. Moreish yet classy it is a great alternative to the harsher Marlborough Sauvignon's, something you can really show off when serving. Great with smoked fish, asparagus, Sushi and Dim Sum.

Woollaston Riesling 2007 £10.99 retail
A deserved Gold Medal at the International Wine Challenge, this wine has blasted its way onto the international stage. Quite often a grape that is feared, this is a magical little number that I would wager could swing the hardest heart and palate in its favour. Sweet citrus blossom and lime on the nose are enriched with mandarin and minerals on the palate. A fabulously rich and textured mouthfeel, it has a delightfully dry finish make it a cracking combination with spicy Asian dishes, rich shellfish done over smoky coals and Sushi.

Woollaston Pinot Noir 2006 £16.99 retail
Red plums and black cherry marry beautifully with a delicious savoury edge of smoky gammon and subtle spicy oak. integrated and balanced, with wonderfully supple tannins it provides a wonderful value alternative to Burgundy. A real treat served with peking duck, gamefish, lamb, venison and creamy blue cheese.

In short they are exciting, modern, green, great value, flipping delicious and available in the UK through Novum Wines. Don't follow the established wine paths, forge ahead with great wines such as these and you won't be disappointed. Just don't be suprised when you keep being asked to provide the wine at dinner parties!

Bulgarian Pinot gets tongues wagging

A sneak preview of something that might really brighten up this increasingly depressing weather. Warm, muggy and over cast has replaced the oh so optimistic 'Barbeque summer' (when was that ever going to be a realistic prediction for the mud island?) so my desire of juicy roses and racy whites has some what diminished in the face of the driving rain. However I can't quite bring myself to admit defeat and dive into a beefy Malbec so my thoughts drift longingly to the beautifully perfumed red Burgundies and are so thoroughly out of my price range it brings tears to my eyes (and the ones that are in my price range tend to bring tears to my eyes with their green tannins and stinky corks)

Refusing to allow this unacceptable status quo to continue I have managed to discover an absolute gem. A sneak preview of the EM Pinot Nero 2007 from Bulgaria (Yes Bulgaria!) has answered my prayers, and I have to say there is nothing better than finding an absolute cracker from a very unusual region. Not yet due into the country for another month this is a real beauty and has already caused a stir among the sommeliers who have had the opportunity to taste it, so watch for its name on leading wine lists soon. It will be retailing through the Novum Wines website at approximately £11.00

It has the elegance and perfume of Burgundy, a fabulous purity of fruit, accessible yet refined tannins and a mouth watering finish, all underpinned with a seductive hints of smokey French oak. It will prove a great partner to white and red meat, young cheese and roasted vegetables.

The winery was established in 2002 by Italian Edoardo Miroglio who after elaborate analyses of the micro region of Elenovo village he found the ideal terroir for cultivating premium vines. This squeaky clean, modern winery is most certainly one to watch for serious quality and affordable prices, though quantities are limited.

This is an absolutely wonderful substitute for the often over priced Burgundies on the market and a real pleasure to be on the front line of new boutique producers coming in from exciting regions. This wine will be available from Novum Wines by the end of August.

A feast for palate, mind and soul

We all know that food and wine are a match made in heaven, especially when a little thought is put into the pairing, but the time has now come to take this popular concept a step further and add an unusual twist. The Drawing Room Restaurant in Nottinghill have joined forces with boutique wine importer Novum Wines and artist Andrew Brooke for one night to bring you a collaboration between art, wine and food.

For one night only you will be invited to drink in and discover, both through the eyes and through the mouth, the journey both have taken to arrive in front of you, and where these sights, sounds and flavours may take you in turn. Open you mind and palate and allow yourself to be transported away from the daily grind and see what senses are aroused when given the chance. Combine this with some fabulously matched food and you will soon be in 7th heaven.

The evening of Wednesday 29th July will include bubbles and canapes followed by an interactive introduction from the artist and the wine importer, and of course, a 3 course dinner paired with 6 wines, all for only £45. Places are very limited so contact alex@novumwines.com if this sounds like your cup of tea.

Laurant Chatenay Montlouis Sparkling Brut NV, Loire, France
Canapes

To Start...
Pan fried Scallops, sweet potato puree with smoked paprika and a Thai herb salad
Easthope 'The Gatecrasher' 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
and
Weegmuller Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007, Pflaz, Germany

Then...
Pork medalians, crushed new potatoes with olives, capers and rosemary jus
Gaia Thalassitis 2007, Santorini, Greece
and
Bodegas Solar Urbezo Vina Urbezo Tinto 2008, Carinena, Spain

And Finally....
Cheese board
Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvingon Resera 2006, Maipo Valley
and
Domaine Juliette Avril Chateauneuf du Pape 2006, Rhone, France

Desmond Tutu and Biodynamic White Burgundy

Last night I was lucky enough to attend a lecture by Archbishop Desmond Tutu at St Paul's Catherdral. At 78 years old he stood and slowly approached the lecturn under the arching splendor of the domed roof, looking a little unsteady on his feet and every minute of his age I had to prevent myself from jumping up and offering him a hand. As he turned and began his address, the transformation was spectacular. He seemed to grow inches and shed the years. His eyes were alive alternatively with humour and humility and the impact of not only his words but his delivery and his presence were evident on the faces of the audience. A wonderfully balanced speech he spoke with sincerity, with fire and with love, interspercing it with dramatic pauses and bouts of contageous laughter. To be in the presence of such a life force was an almost spiritual experience, for the first time I experienced the power of a truly great orator, but more than that, of a truly great man.

What has this all got to do with white burgundy you're wondering, is she just enjoying the sound of her own fingers? Rhythmic though they are, stick with it, there is a point to my rambling, tenuous though it might at first appear.

I have just tasted the latest vintage (2007) of Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot Grand Chatelain from Burgundy. Now this is a wine from a tiny family run estate in the Cotes de Beaune and the wine maker is just 24 years old, I opened and poured contently looking forward to a well made, pleasant white Burgundy. What I got was something different all together.

Just as this unpreposesing man had approached the microphone, so too did this wine, for all intents and purposes appear to be similar to any other well made and boutique Cotes de Beaune. It looked good; clean, pure and light gold. It smelt delicious, rich yet restrained hinting at a depth you'd only discover once it had entered your mouth... and this is when the transformation happened. As soon as this wine hit my palate it just exploded, it was so alive and vibrant, it had an energy to it that even an untrained palate couldn't help but be affected by. Fabulous fruit concentration, rounded oak perfectly intigrated, a touch of spice, structure, finesse and elegance, but there was something else about it over and above this that captivated and really awoke the senses.

Be as cynical as you will about biodynamic farming but for all their weird and wonderful practices, it is a focus on harnessing the earths energy, working with nature, gravity, life and growth and channelling the energy of the vine through the harvest and into the tank or barrel, respecting its natural movement and flow, in short working with the vine not against it. I have tasted beautifully made biodynamic wines, but could I have said this was the result of biodynamics rather than a very talented wine maker or viticulturalist? Possibly not. This however is the first time that I can say with certainty that the purity and natural energy of the wine I tasted had harnessed more than just flavour from its terroir, but life from the soils.

All a bit profound for a Tuesday afternoon? Quite possibly, but every once in a while when something or someone really hits home and gets under the skin it does feel good to talk about it!

An Ass-kicking Italian Rose

Fed up with weak and watery rose and off-dry blush and want a damn fine pink wine that will delight the pickiest palate, stand up to food and quaff down a treat. bingo! I've found it.

From the stunning beautiful and highly awarded Valle Reale Winery in Abruzzo, Italy comes some of Italy's finest Montepulcianos. The reds, rated with 3 glasses in the Italian wine bible the Gamero Rosso and lauded abroad, they have pulled this little beauty out of the bag.

The Valle Reale Vigne Nuove Cerasuolo 2008, their 100% Montepulciano rose is just what the doctor ordered. Wonderfully succulent wild berry fruits cradled in a creamy vanilla blanket fill the senses. This richness gives it weight and depth to stand up to the most brazen barbeque king (BBQ ribs would match up a treat), while the zippy acidity keeps it alive, fresh and vibrant in your mouth, perfect for keeping refreshed while the meat cooks.

I'm not the only one rating this wine, wine guru Robert Parker rated this an outstanding 89 points for the 2008 vintage. And all this for under a tenner?? Impossible I hear you cry... well apparently not.

This wine is available at just £9.10 from Novum Wines on-line shop while stocks last.

The Kingdom of Navarra - Tandem Winery

Navarra is a wine region in Spain that is all too often over looked. Boardering its famous cousin, Rioja, the wines of Navarra can vary greatly in quality. However find the right winery and you'll get some absolutely knock out deals. Tandem Winery is one such, perched high up in the hills, it is a full 3 weeks later in harvesting than the rest of the region due to its cool altitude. This lends finesse and elegance to these wonderfully rich wines. Here US wine writer Charles Olken recaps on his trip to Navarra, and in particular to Tandem Winery (see the bottom of the page):

'Chances are that you rarely drink the wines of Navarra, and possibly you have not even heard of them. Famous places in Spain like Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Rias Baixas and Penedes are more likely to be of interest to most wine drinkers. Still, when a friend of ours told us the story of Navarra, it caught our attention. Navarra, it turns out, is also the location of Pamplona, and while we never got in the way of the bulls when they were running, we spent more than a few of our youthfully green days enjoying the place and falling in love with the scenery, the people, the food and even the pink wines that were its forte at the time.

Turns out, in today’s modern world, that the Kingdom of Navarra (how many places in Spain think of themselves as something else first and Spanish second) has moved from backwater bull country to bustling countryside in which almost every large town and some smaller ones as well have new and fancy buildings, plenty of first class commerce and great places to try the wine and take the food, both local and international. And Navarra has a couple of other advantages that intrigued us as wine drinkers. It borders directly on Rioja, and, in an odd circumstance, some of its own territory falls within the Rioja appellation boundaries. The tales of vines growing right up to the border and then stopping as one leaves the Rioja growing area, still in Navarra, of course, tells us a lot about the value of a famous name. It tells us less about the wines of Navarra, but it does suggest a potential unrealized.

We traveled in the company of other writers and interested folks, and as with our trip to Sicily last year, we have been greatly aided by and are indebted to our traveling guide, Paul Wagner, in telling the tale of a place that has lots to tell about. We begin with a look at history and place and then add wine commentary. On this trip, the wines were tasted with open labels at the wineries, and, accordingly come without specific ratings. But, in compiling our list of recommended wines, we have consulted both our own notes and also communed with Mr. Wagner and with Tim Gaiser, head of instruction for the Court of Master Sommeliers. No wine appears, it must be said, unless we personally feel that it deserves to be mentioned, but it is also true, that we have tended to mention wines whose character impressed most of the wine experts on the trip.

About The Place
Navarra is a land of true diversity. Lying between Rioja and Bordeaux in the foothills of the Pyrenees, the region combines Spanish, French and Basque influences. Its special location has allowed it to draw expertise and inspiration from both of these regions while developing its own unique mix of styles. In the north, especially west of Pamplona, the Pyrenees dominate and then the area flattens out a bit and opens up the further south one goes. And the climate has a similar spectrum. Navarra offers winemakers an array of growing conditions from the cool Atlantic-influenced north to the dry and flat areas less than one hundred miles to the south. Comparisons to Bordeaux in the north and Argentina in the south were inescapable.

It is not surprising then that we tasted everything from stunning Chardonnays and Bordeaux-style blends to delicious Garnchas (Grenache) and Tempranillos and wonderful rosé wines often made from old vine Grenache. It is also worth noting that most of the modern, forward-looking wines came from the coolest portion of Navarra in an area west to southwest of—Chardonnays, Cabernets and Tempranillos that seem destined to earn world-class status as their fame spreads. And full credit goes to the winemakers of the entire region whose interest in improving their products has seen them push for the authorization of new varieties and experiments with as yet unauthorized grapes.

Navarra is a region with a rich cultural history as well. During Charlemagne’s rule of the Kingdom, the legendary knight Roland fought his epic battle that has been immortalized by the Chanson de Roland (Song of Roland), one of the oldest known works of French literature. During this same time, the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela placed Navarra on the cultural map of Europe. The steady traffic of religious visitors gave Navarra exposure to many different cultures and traditions, including contact with winemakers in the major wine regions of France. Last year, more than 45,000 people from all over the world made this 500-mile trek across northern Spain, and wineries like Tandem and Monjardin, whose wines are mentioned below, are practically part of the route as it passes within sniffing distance of their doors.

Navarra’s capital, Pamplona, is famous for its festival of San Fermin and the running of the bulls through its ancient historic center. The town receives a million visitors for this one week of wild celebration in the streets. The locals we met on this trip were quick to tell us that they go away for the week, yet the son of one of the winery owners was proud to tell us that he and his buddies would be there. Ernest Hemingway became fascinated with the festival and visited several times His highly regarded novels, The Sun Also Rises and For Whom the Bell Tolls are both based in Navarra. The region is filled with beautifully preserved fortresses, castles and noble houses from the Middle-Ages. One of the finest is in the town of Olite and serves as a backdrop for a Festival of Classical. Today Olite is also rightfully famous as home to Spain’s most advanced viticultural and enological-based research center, Evena. If Navarra wines are currently operating in the shadow of their western neighbors in Rioja, whose output is four times larger, the region’s wide range of growing conditions and its complement of winemakers intent on expanding the envelope make Navarra a wine region to watch as well as a lovely place to visit.

The Wines

There was a time, and it was not so long ago, that traditional Spanish varieties and traditional winemaking were the rule in Navarra. But Navarra was perhaps the first of the Spanish wine regions to embrace the idea of new varieties and now many of its top red wines are made with substantial portions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tempranillo and Grenache still play the major roles, especially in the lower priced reds, and remain the dominant varieties by planted acreage. White grapes have never been a significant factor there, and even though Chardonnay is making inroads, especially in the cooler regions around Estella west of Pamplona, whites still account for something like 6-7% of all production in Navarra. For years, Navarra was most known for Rosado (rosé), and that is true today. Old vine Grenache can make exceptionally fruity and fragrant rosés when made in modern wineries, and the rosés of Navarra are, by far, the most widely seen rosés in Spain. Wine prices are very inexpensive when you are in country, but the rise significantly here because of the costs of shipping and the systems of distribution. Still, with very good rosé near $10 and attractive Crianza reds closer to $15, they are real bargains when they appear in our own backyards. The fancier reds go up in price, but some of them are world-class in their own right and have personalities that are uniquely Spanish even when French varieties claim top place in their respective cepages.

Tandem is a new winery that would be at home in California. Located in the cool western region of the area, it specializes in refined wines that, truth be told, veer away from the typical outgoing style of Navarra and instead emphasize a claret-like elegance. Our favorite was Tandem 2005 Ars Nova, a Tempranillo-dominated wine. Others favored Ars Macula, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. All of us loved both of them.'

Tandem Wines are available to buy online in the UK from Novum Wines

The Boundary Restaurant, Shoreditch

Conran's new restaurant in Shoreditch, The Boundary is swiftly becoming a cult in the area, both for the many business men still eager to close deals over a really good (though by no means exhorbitant) meal and by Shoreditch's many trend-setters who emigrate to the roof top terrace for a glass of exceptionally well madeViognier or one of the many other well picked wines available.

The restaurant downstairs is where I had the pleasure of spending a leisurely evening last night. Great company was a given, eagerly anticipated was the food which certainly didn't dissapoint (try the charcuterie plate to start) but what really made the evening so memorable? The excellent service of the incredibly approachable and compitent sommelier. Eager to recommend wine to go with the food, it was not a case of being handed the most expensive bottle on the list by a grinning waiter with pound signs in his eyes, but a genuine pairing of a delicious wine that would compliment the array of dishes on the table with knowledge and frankness.

We started with a glass of Philipponnat 'Royal Reserve' Brut, absolutely perfect for awakening the palate after a long days work with it's ripe fruit, delicate biscuity mouthfeel and delightfully zippy acidity.

This was all too quickly followed by the Easthope 'The Gatecrasher' 2007 from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. Now this was an absolute cracker!!! 100% Sauvignon Blanc but made as though it was a fine Burgundy, oodles of wonderfully creamy rich elegant fruit with perfectly integrated oak displaying weight and depth, it suddenly explodes on the finish with a fabulous citrus zest twist and lingers delightfully on the tongue. This blew a few socks off around the table, nice work Mr. Easthope!

To compliment the fact we'd all opted for various forms of fishful fancy, we were served, again on recommendation with a Bourgogne Rouge 2006 from Domaine Robert Arnoux, Burgundy. What struck you immediately about this was the absolute purity of fruit. It was like listening to a choir hitting the perfect high note - what a pleasure!

Just when we thought the evening had come to an end, we were suprised by the Aussie Sommelier with a little something from his homeland, but not something I had ever anticipated! It was a Pink Moscato from the Yarra Valley made by Innocent Bystander. It was light, just a hint of sweetness and a hint of sparkle. Fruity but balanced, spritzy yet elegant, a touch of sweetness to finish the meal but light enough for you to want more, and at only 5% alcohol we did have some more. In the glow of the candle light it was the perfect way to end the evening.

The 4 of us left the restaurant highly contented and planning our return trip.

Mahi Sauvignon Blanc 2007 rocks Veynerchuck's world!

It's always a pleasure to see someone get as excited about a wine as you are yourself. Not only is it a pat on the back for your own expert palate, but quite often highly entertaining! Gary Veynerchuck is one such wine expert, I highly recommend grabbing yourself a bottle, strap yourself in and watch his explosive review of this exceptional Marlborough wine. from Brian Bicknell. Order your case from Novum Wines.

More than just a glass of wine, its' a holiday in a bottle

The mark of a truly great wine is undoubtedly in its ability to transport you, for a brief moment, into another world. Too feel the wine rather than taste it, to allow it to talk to you rather than trying to analyse it. I’m talking about more than merely getting a sense of terroir from the wine but allowing the wine to engulf all your senses. By focusing too much on the intellectual aspects of the wine, it is easy to miss the magical quality that imbues wine. Wine should be tasted not just through your nose and your palate but through your heart and your soul. I have been lucky enough to have a few of these out of body experiences recently, and if you keen for the ride I highly recommend that you pop the cork on a couple of these little beauties, sit back, close your eyes and enjoy the ride!
One such wine is Thalassitis 2008 by Gaia from the beautiful island of Santorini. It has been described by critics as the ‘greatest vin de terroir in the world’, and they really weren’t joking. It is made from 100% Assyrtiko, an indigenous grape to Greece and it takes no prisoners! It is characterised by its searing minerality, zingy acidity, utter purity of fruit and a finish that just keeps lingering. In one sip you are transported to the huge white boulders of the Greek countryside turned molten under the unforgiving midday sun, the air heavy with the scent of baked lemons and wild herbs and the heavenly silence of the remote countryside. If your budget doesn’t stretch to a Greek holiday, then this is a damn fine substitute.
Much to my delight, Gaia have just released another Assyrtiko, but this one is a wild ferment which has oodles of character and all the phenomenal flavours you’d expect from a Santorinian Assyrtiko but it is then wrapped up in layers of beautifully integrated and seductive smoky oak. Wine writer Olly Smith has recently rated it as he favourite white wine for this month . To buy these wines hop on to the Novum website and they are all yours...