Friday, July 31, 2009

Bulgarian Pinot gets tongues wagging

A sneak preview of something that might really brighten up this increasingly depressing weather. Warm, muggy and over cast has replaced the oh so optimistic 'Barbeque summer' (when was that ever going to be a realistic prediction for the mud island?) so my desire of juicy roses and racy whites has some what diminished in the face of the driving rain. However I can't quite bring myself to admit defeat and dive into a beefy Malbec so my thoughts drift longingly to the beautifully perfumed red Burgundies and are so thoroughly out of my price range it brings tears to my eyes (and the ones that are in my price range tend to bring tears to my eyes with their green tannins and stinky corks)

Refusing to allow this unacceptable status quo to continue I have managed to discover an absolute gem. A sneak preview of the EM Pinot Nero 2007 from Bulgaria (Yes Bulgaria!) has answered my prayers, and I have to say there is nothing better than finding an absolute cracker from a very unusual region. Not yet due into the country for another month this is a real beauty and has already caused a stir among the sommeliers who have had the opportunity to taste it, so watch for its name on leading wine lists soon. It will be retailing through the Novum Wines website at approximately £11.00

It has the elegance and perfume of Burgundy, a fabulous purity of fruit, accessible yet refined tannins and a mouth watering finish, all underpinned with a seductive hints of smokey French oak. It will prove a great partner to white and red meat, young cheese and roasted vegetables.

The winery was established in 2002 by Italian Edoardo Miroglio who after elaborate analyses of the micro region of Elenovo village he found the ideal terroir for cultivating premium vines. This squeaky clean, modern winery is most certainly one to watch for serious quality and affordable prices, though quantities are limited.

This is an absolutely wonderful substitute for the often over priced Burgundies on the market and a real pleasure to be on the front line of new boutique producers coming in from exciting regions. This wine will be available from Novum Wines by the end of August.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

A feast for palate, mind and soul

We all know that food and wine are a match made in heaven, especially when a little thought is put into the pairing, but the time has now come to take this popular concept a step further and add an unusual twist. The Drawing Room Restaurant in Nottinghill have joined forces with boutique wine importer Novum Wines and artist Andrew Brooke for one night to bring you a collaboration between art, wine and food.

For one night only you will be invited to drink in and discover, both through the eyes and through the mouth, the journey both have taken to arrive in front of you, and where these sights, sounds and flavours may take you in turn. Open you mind and palate and allow yourself to be transported away from the daily grind and see what senses are aroused when given the chance. Combine this with some fabulously matched food and you will soon be in 7th heaven.

The evening of Wednesday 29th July will include bubbles and canapes followed by an interactive introduction from the artist and the wine importer, and of course, a 3 course dinner paired with 6 wines, all for only £45. Places are very limited so contact alex@novumwines.com if this sounds like your cup of tea.

Laurant Chatenay Montlouis Sparkling Brut NV, Loire, France
Canapes

To Start...
Pan fried Scallops, sweet potato puree with smoked paprika and a Thai herb salad
Easthope 'The Gatecrasher' 2007, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
and
Weegmuller Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007, Pflaz, Germany

Then...
Pork medalians, crushed new potatoes with olives, capers and rosemary jus
Gaia Thalassitis 2007, Santorini, Greece
and
Bodegas Solar Urbezo Vina Urbezo Tinto 2008, Carinena, Spain

And Finally....
Cheese board
Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvingon Resera 2006, Maipo Valley
and
Domaine Juliette Avril Chateauneuf du Pape 2006, Rhone, France

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Desmond Tutu and Biodynamic White Burgundy

Last night I was lucky enough to attend a lecture by Archbishop Desmond Tutu at St Paul's Catherdral. At 78 years old he stood and slowly approached the lecturn under the arching splendor of the domed roof, looking a little unsteady on his feet and every minute of his age I had to prevent myself from jumping up and offering him a hand. As he turned and began his address, the transformation was spectacular. He seemed to grow inches and shed the years. His eyes were alive alternatively with humour and humility and the impact of not only his words but his delivery and his presence were evident on the faces of the audience. A wonderfully balanced speech he spoke with sincerity, with fire and with love, interspercing it with dramatic pauses and bouts of contageous laughter. To be in the presence of such a life force was an almost spiritual experience, for the first time I experienced the power of a truly great orator, but more than that, of a truly great man.

What has this all got to do with white burgundy you're wondering, is she just enjoying the sound of her own fingers? Rhythmic though they are, stick with it, there is a point to my rambling, tenuous though it might at first appear.

I have just tasted the latest vintage (2007) of Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot Grand Chatelain from Burgundy. Now this is a wine from a tiny family run estate in the Cotes de Beaune and the wine maker is just 24 years old, I opened and poured contently looking forward to a well made, pleasant white Burgundy. What I got was something different all together.

Just as this unpreposesing man had approached the microphone, so too did this wine, for all intents and purposes appear to be similar to any other well made and boutique Cotes de Beaune. It looked good; clean, pure and light gold. It smelt delicious, rich yet restrained hinting at a depth you'd only discover once it had entered your mouth... and this is when the transformation happened. As soon as this wine hit my palate it just exploded, it was so alive and vibrant, it had an energy to it that even an untrained palate couldn't help but be affected by. Fabulous fruit concentration, rounded oak perfectly intigrated, a touch of spice, structure, finesse and elegance, but there was something else about it over and above this that captivated and really awoke the senses.

Be as cynical as you will about biodynamic farming but for all their weird and wonderful practices, it is a focus on harnessing the earths energy, working with nature, gravity, life and growth and channelling the energy of the vine through the harvest and into the tank or barrel, respecting its natural movement and flow, in short working with the vine not against it. I have tasted beautifully made biodynamic wines, but could I have said this was the result of biodynamics rather than a very talented wine maker or viticulturalist? Possibly not. This however is the first time that I can say with certainty that the purity and natural energy of the wine I tasted had harnessed more than just flavour from its terroir, but life from the soils.

All a bit profound for a Tuesday afternoon? Quite possibly, but every once in a while when something or someone really hits home and gets under the skin it does feel good to talk about it!

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

An Ass-kicking Italian Rose

Fed up with weak and watery rose and off-dry blush and want a damn fine pink wine that will delight the pickiest palate, stand up to food and quaff down a treat. bingo! I've found it.

From the stunning beautiful and highly awarded Valle Reale Winery in Abruzzo, Italy comes some of Italy's finest Montepulcianos. The reds, rated with 3 glasses in the Italian wine bible the Gamero Rosso and lauded abroad, they have pulled this little beauty out of the bag.

The Valle Reale Vigne Nuove Cerasuolo 2008, their 100% Montepulciano rose is just what the doctor ordered. Wonderfully succulent wild berry fruits cradled in a creamy vanilla blanket fill the senses. This richness gives it weight and depth to stand up to the most brazen barbeque king (BBQ ribs would match up a treat), while the zippy acidity keeps it alive, fresh and vibrant in your mouth, perfect for keeping refreshed while the meat cooks.

I'm not the only one rating this wine, wine guru Robert Parker rated this an outstanding 89 points for the 2008 vintage. And all this for under a tenner?? Impossible I hear you cry... well apparently not.

This wine is available at just £9.10 from Novum Wines on-line shop while stocks last.

The Kingdom of Navarra - Tandem Winery

Navarra is a wine region in Spain that is all too often over looked. Boardering its famous cousin, Rioja, the wines of Navarra can vary greatly in quality. However find the right winery and you'll get some absolutely knock out deals. Tandem Winery is one such, perched high up in the hills, it is a full 3 weeks later in harvesting than the rest of the region due to its cool altitude. This lends finesse and elegance to these wonderfully rich wines. Here US wine writer Charles Olken recaps on his trip to Navarra, and in particular to Tandem Winery (see the bottom of the page):

'Chances are that you rarely drink the wines of Navarra, and possibly you have not even heard of them. Famous places in Spain like Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Rias Baixas and Penedes are more likely to be of interest to most wine drinkers. Still, when a friend of ours told us the story of Navarra, it caught our attention. Navarra, it turns out, is also the location of Pamplona, and while we never got in the way of the bulls when they were running, we spent more than a few of our youthfully green days enjoying the place and falling in love with the scenery, the people, the food and even the pink wines that were its forte at the time.

Turns out, in today’s modern world, that the Kingdom of Navarra (how many places in Spain think of themselves as something else first and Spanish second) has moved from backwater bull country to bustling countryside in which almost every large town and some smaller ones as well have new and fancy buildings, plenty of first class commerce and great places to try the wine and take the food, both local and international. And Navarra has a couple of other advantages that intrigued us as wine drinkers. It borders directly on Rioja, and, in an odd circumstance, some of its own territory falls within the Rioja appellation boundaries. The tales of vines growing right up to the border and then stopping as one leaves the Rioja growing area, still in Navarra, of course, tells us a lot about the value of a famous name. It tells us less about the wines of Navarra, but it does suggest a potential unrealized.

We traveled in the company of other writers and interested folks, and as with our trip to Sicily last year, we have been greatly aided by and are indebted to our traveling guide, Paul Wagner, in telling the tale of a place that has lots to tell about. We begin with a look at history and place and then add wine commentary. On this trip, the wines were tasted with open labels at the wineries, and, accordingly come without specific ratings. But, in compiling our list of recommended wines, we have consulted both our own notes and also communed with Mr. Wagner and with Tim Gaiser, head of instruction for the Court of Master Sommeliers. No wine appears, it must be said, unless we personally feel that it deserves to be mentioned, but it is also true, that we have tended to mention wines whose character impressed most of the wine experts on the trip.

About The Place
Navarra is a land of true diversity. Lying between Rioja and Bordeaux in the foothills of the Pyrenees, the region combines Spanish, French and Basque influences. Its special location has allowed it to draw expertise and inspiration from both of these regions while developing its own unique mix of styles. In the north, especially west of Pamplona, the Pyrenees dominate and then the area flattens out a bit and opens up the further south one goes. And the climate has a similar spectrum. Navarra offers winemakers an array of growing conditions from the cool Atlantic-influenced north to the dry and flat areas less than one hundred miles to the south. Comparisons to Bordeaux in the north and Argentina in the south were inescapable.

It is not surprising then that we tasted everything from stunning Chardonnays and Bordeaux-style blends to delicious Garnchas (Grenache) and Tempranillos and wonderful rosé wines often made from old vine Grenache. It is also worth noting that most of the modern, forward-looking wines came from the coolest portion of Navarra in an area west to southwest of—Chardonnays, Cabernets and Tempranillos that seem destined to earn world-class status as their fame spreads. And full credit goes to the winemakers of the entire region whose interest in improving their products has seen them push for the authorization of new varieties and experiments with as yet unauthorized grapes.

Navarra is a region with a rich cultural history as well. During Charlemagne’s rule of the Kingdom, the legendary knight Roland fought his epic battle that has been immortalized by the Chanson de Roland (Song of Roland), one of the oldest known works of French literature. During this same time, the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela placed Navarra on the cultural map of Europe. The steady traffic of religious visitors gave Navarra exposure to many different cultures and traditions, including contact with winemakers in the major wine regions of France. Last year, more than 45,000 people from all over the world made this 500-mile trek across northern Spain, and wineries like Tandem and Monjardin, whose wines are mentioned below, are practically part of the route as it passes within sniffing distance of their doors.

Navarra’s capital, Pamplona, is famous for its festival of San Fermin and the running of the bulls through its ancient historic center. The town receives a million visitors for this one week of wild celebration in the streets. The locals we met on this trip were quick to tell us that they go away for the week, yet the son of one of the winery owners was proud to tell us that he and his buddies would be there. Ernest Hemingway became fascinated with the festival and visited several times His highly regarded novels, The Sun Also Rises and For Whom the Bell Tolls are both based in Navarra. The region is filled with beautifully preserved fortresses, castles and noble houses from the Middle-Ages. One of the finest is in the town of Olite and serves as a backdrop for a Festival of Classical. Today Olite is also rightfully famous as home to Spain’s most advanced viticultural and enological-based research center, Evena. If Navarra wines are currently operating in the shadow of their western neighbors in Rioja, whose output is four times larger, the region’s wide range of growing conditions and its complement of winemakers intent on expanding the envelope make Navarra a wine region to watch as well as a lovely place to visit.

The Wines

There was a time, and it was not so long ago, that traditional Spanish varieties and traditional winemaking were the rule in Navarra. But Navarra was perhaps the first of the Spanish wine regions to embrace the idea of new varieties and now many of its top red wines are made with substantial portions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tempranillo and Grenache still play the major roles, especially in the lower priced reds, and remain the dominant varieties by planted acreage. White grapes have never been a significant factor there, and even though Chardonnay is making inroads, especially in the cooler regions around Estella west of Pamplona, whites still account for something like 6-7% of all production in Navarra. For years, Navarra was most known for Rosado (rosé), and that is true today. Old vine Grenache can make exceptionally fruity and fragrant rosés when made in modern wineries, and the rosés of Navarra are, by far, the most widely seen rosés in Spain. Wine prices are very inexpensive when you are in country, but the rise significantly here because of the costs of shipping and the systems of distribution. Still, with very good rosé near $10 and attractive Crianza reds closer to $15, they are real bargains when they appear in our own backyards. The fancier reds go up in price, but some of them are world-class in their own right and have personalities that are uniquely Spanish even when French varieties claim top place in their respective cepages.

Tandem is a new winery that would be at home in California. Located in the cool western region of the area, it specializes in refined wines that, truth be told, veer away from the typical outgoing style of Navarra and instead emphasize a claret-like elegance. Our favorite was Tandem 2005 Ars Nova, a Tempranillo-dominated wine. Others favored Ars Macula, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. All of us loved both of them.'

Tandem Wines are available to buy online in the UK from Novum Wines

Thursday, July 2, 2009

The Boundary Restaurant, Shoreditch

Conran's new restaurant in Shoreditch, The Boundary is swiftly becoming a cult in the area, both for the many business men still eager to close deals over a really good (though by no means exhorbitant) meal and by Shoreditch's many trend-setters who emigrate to the roof top terrace for a glass of exceptionally well madeViognier or one of the many other well picked wines available.

The restaurant downstairs is where I had the pleasure of spending a leisurely evening last night. Great company was a given, eagerly anticipated was the food which certainly didn't dissapoint (try the charcuterie plate to start) but what really made the evening so memorable? The excellent service of the incredibly approachable and compitent sommelier. Eager to recommend wine to go with the food, it was not a case of being handed the most expensive bottle on the list by a grinning waiter with pound signs in his eyes, but a genuine pairing of a delicious wine that would compliment the array of dishes on the table with knowledge and frankness.

We started with a glass of Philipponnat 'Royal Reserve' Brut, absolutely perfect for awakening the palate after a long days work with it's ripe fruit, delicate biscuity mouthfeel and delightfully zippy acidity.

This was all too quickly followed by the Easthope 'The Gatecrasher' 2007 from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. Now this was an absolute cracker!!! 100% Sauvignon Blanc but made as though it was a fine Burgundy, oodles of wonderfully creamy rich elegant fruit with perfectly integrated oak displaying weight and depth, it suddenly explodes on the finish with a fabulous citrus zest twist and lingers delightfully on the tongue. This blew a few socks off around the table, nice work Mr. Easthope!

To compliment the fact we'd all opted for various forms of fishful fancy, we were served, again on recommendation with a Bourgogne Rouge 2006 from Domaine Robert Arnoux, Burgundy. What struck you immediately about this was the absolute purity of fruit. It was like listening to a choir hitting the perfect high note - what a pleasure!

Just when we thought the evening had come to an end, we were suprised by the Aussie Sommelier with a little something from his homeland, but not something I had ever anticipated! It was a Pink Moscato from the Yarra Valley made by Innocent Bystander. It was light, just a hint of sweetness and a hint of sparkle. Fruity but balanced, spritzy yet elegant, a touch of sweetness to finish the meal but light enough for you to want more, and at only 5% alcohol we did have some more. In the glow of the candle light it was the perfect way to end the evening.

The 4 of us left the restaurant highly contented and planning our return trip.