Santorini, an island of stark contrasts

Stepping off the plane at Thira airport, a warm lick of heat washes over me carrying with it the faint smell of curry leaves that grow wild across this barren volcanic rock. Unsure as to what to expect from this brief visit to Santorini other than the anticipation of heat, seafood and plenty of local wine, I was unprepared for the energy that emanated from the core of one of the earth’s most powerful volcano’s and the magic that this has imbued every aspect of the island with.
Bare, wild and raw yet at the same time vital, vibrant, and alive, Santorini seems to weave a spell over those that arrive on her shores and the effect is either love or hate, clarity or insanity. It is an island of extremes; extreme beauty, extreme temperature, extreme winemaking. Is it any wonder then that the wines being produced on this island are, simply put, extraordinary?
To truly love someone you must first understand them and the influences that have moulded them into the person they are today. To truly appreciate wine, the prerequisites are no different. Driving through the vineyards on a decrepit quad bike allowed an intimate glimpse into the life of the vines. It was however, more reminiscent of driving through a construction yard with haphazard growths of unkempt shrubs than through a vineyard and yet the vines of Santorini produce some of the most aromatic and mineral driven grapes imaginable. The resilience of those vines that have penetrated the unyielding pumice stone and volcanic rock, that have withstood the scorching heat, bitter cold, powerful winds and scarcity of water speak volumes for the intensity of the fruit they produce. This understated vista was somehow befitting of a wine of such natural power and beauty.

To visit Gaia Winery was to see first-hand the contrasts that epitomise the island. The humble winery with the odd pane of broken glass belies the state of the art machinery inside and the immaculately clean cellar. In the courtyard the pristine swimming pool contrasts with the wild black sand beach which flanks it. The deserted restaurant with the peeling yellow paint and no roof is carpeted with grapes drying in the sun to make the islands famous sweet vinsanto wine. Yiannie Paraskevopoulos the wine maker, is one of Greece’s leading lights and is making ultra modern wines out of some of the world’s most archaic grapes (the vines are believed to be some of the oldest in the world, with root systems of over 500 years old and having never been touched by phyloxera all the vines are un-grafted). The wine revolution is in full swing in Greece and Yiannie is most definitely at the helm.

What this winery is really famous for are the bone dry white wines made from 100% Assyrtiko grapes. ‘Thalassitis’ from the Greek ‘from the sea’ is the name of Gaia’s flagship Assyrtiko, alternatively described as ‘the greatest vin de terroir of the world’ the ‘Rocky Balboa of white wine’, and a ‘Chablis on steroids’ it is an explosion of intense baked lemon, wild herbs and a spine tingling minerality which sets the palate on fire and continues to sizzle long after it has vacated the mouth. Truly a wine of international class.

Extreme wine making on the edge of the volcano has given birth to an extreme wine. Sitting there eating fresh hunks of barbequed octopus tentacles and a caper strewn fresh Santorini salad, the hot breeze tugging at my hair, the clear waves rolling against black sands and the tang of salt in the air, it would have taken a heart of stone not to have been moved. Some sights, sounds and tastes stay with you for a long time, and that wine, that view over the Caldera, that moment is one of them.

Officially the Best Riesling in the World!!!!

Having waxed lyrical about the wonders of the Johann Donabaum Riesling Setzberg Smargd 2007 from Austria I was rightly challenged to prove its worth in a line up of new and old world Rieslings among friends ever anxious to prove their own might. After a lengthy day of non-spitting and a variety of styles from the beautifully feminine, off dry florality of the German Donnhof, the unbelievably masculine, phenominally compact grand-daddy of Austrian wine, FX Pickler Austrian to the great citrus, manderine and petrol balance of the new world Woollaston Riesling from Nelson in New Zealand, the Donabaum did indeed stand its ground a treat.

I would now like to add the cherry to the cake - The Decanter World Wine Awards was held on Tuesday night and the Donabaum Setzberg Riesling won not only a gold trophy, but the International Riesling Trophy. Just to clarify that makes it THE BEST RIESLING IN THE WORLD.

Johann is only 30 years old. What a legend! Watch this space!!!